Search
Thursday 17 October 2019
  • :
  • :

Big Rig No Drill Anchor Trolley

1

I like to put an anchor trolley on all of my kayaks. It helps when fishing in wind or currents, so that I can angle my kayak to achieve the optimal casting angle. However, I do not like to drill holes in my kayak, so I like to add a no drill anchor trolley whenever possible. This is how I chose to do my trolley on the Big Rig.
What You Will Need for One Side:
– Lighter
– 1/4” Bungee
– 20’ of 1/8” Paracord
– 1/4” Cable Clamp (3)
– 1/2″ Carabineer
– 1/4” Sealect Pulley (2)
– Hog Ring (2) *Optional*
– Shrink Wrap (2) *Optional*

If you are only going to put the trolley on one side, you need to decide which side you want to use. I chose to add my trolley on the left side of the kayak, because there are pre-drilled holes for a zig zag cleat if I decide to add one.

Begin by removing the two lower bolts on the rod tip protector. Open the front hatch to gain access to the two nuts on the inside of the hull. Once the nuts are removed, there will be a washer with rubber on one side that will probably stay attached to the hull. You can either remove it or leave it in place. If you decided to remove it, make sure you put it back on with the rubber facing the plastic. One the bolt in removed attach a 1/4” cable clamp to each of the bolts on the outside of the kayak. I have found that putting the bungee and pulley on the forward hole is easier to do before the nut is tightened. I typically attach the bungee by tying it in a knot, but this time I chose to use a hog ring and shrink wrap to make it more “snag-proof.” You can make the bungee as long as you want, but I chose to make mine shorter so it does not interfere with the second cable clamp.

2

Once you tighten down the nuts and bolts on the rod protector, it is time to move to the center handle. Before I never used a cable clamp on this handle, and I found that the trolley line would sometimes interfere with a rod in the rod trough. By adding a cable clamp to the handle, it keeps the line from going into the trough. The bolt that holds on the handle has a metal insert, so removing it is as simple as unscrewing the bolt. Once it is removed, add a 1/4” cable clamp in between the washer, and the head of the bolt, and tighten down the bolt. 3

Then move to the rear of the kayak. I have found that a good place to have the final pulley is on the rear handle. Attach the final pulley the same way as the front pulley by using a hog ring, or by tying a knot. Once again, you can make the bungee as long or short as you want. For the rear I chose to make my bungee longer because if I have the trolley line loose, the bungee will actually stretch further towards the back of the kayak, if I have the carabineer all the way in the back.

41

Now it is time to run the trolley line. Start by taking one end of the paracord up through the front pulley, front cable clamp, middle cable clamp, then down through the rear pulley. Then bring the line to the middle of the kayak. If you are using a line that is longer than 20 feet, cut off the excess line, but leave some extra line to tie the knots. Now you need to attach something for the anchor line to “run” through. I chose to use a 1/2” carabineer so I can clip on different attachments, like a drift chute. However, you can also use a plastic or stainless steel ring. 5

When attaching the line to the carabineer or ring, I use an arbor knot on the rear, and a uni-knot on the front. By using a uni-knot I am able to loosen or tighten the anchor trolley line. When tying the arbor knot, I found that it is good to remove a section of the inner chord, so that I can make at tighter over hand knot. 6

Once the knots are tied, check the whole system to make sure it moves smoothly. When you are happy with the results tighten the knots, cut off the excess line, and melt them down to the knot. This will help keep the system more “snag-proof.” After this is done you are now ready to head out on the water!